Why Don't We Eat More Bugs? An Argument for Entomophagy

Among the "new and emerging" food groups discussed in this issue's Category Feature, authored by Keya Mukherjee, Ph.D. and Vittorio Fattori, Ph.D. of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO), are edible insects. A number of insects have gained commercial importance as food and animal feed. Demand for farm-raised mealworms, crickets, and grasshoppers is quickly expanding. Insects are a sustainable and plentiful source of protein, fat, fiber, and vitamins in several world regions, particularly South America, Asia, and Africa. An estimated one quarter of the world's population consumes insects as part of a regular diet. Despite the obvious advantages of insects as food, they have not caught on as quickly in North America and Europe—although that is starting to change.  

The EU has been taking steps to normalize the consumption of edible insects, with the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) adding house crickets to its list of approved novel foods in February 2022, migratory locusts in November 2021, and dried mealworms in January 2021. Additional applications for nine insects are pending EFSA approval. The three recent approvals followed Switzerland's decision to allow sales of mealworms, grasshoppers, and crickets in grocery stores from 2017. Cricket flour, which is produced in Thailand and can be used to make pasta and baked goods, is being introduced to the EU market as a protein-rich alternative to wheat flour. Often called the "gateway" edible insect, crickets are an especially good choice for human and animal food due to their culinary versatility and the small land and carbon footprints required for farming.

Edible insects have proved to be a harder sell in North America, although advocacy groups and entrepreneurs in both regions are working to promote insect-based protein to consumers. New York-based Brooklyn Bugs, founded by Chef Joseph Yoon in 2017, is raising awareness for edible insects in the U.S. through educational and culinary programs. Meanwhile, the Brussels-based International Platform of Insects for Food and Feed (IPIFF) has been working with EU legislators since 2012 to promote edible insects for the European market.

Although edible insects have generally fewer food safety concerns than do meat and poultry, they can still be contaminated by pathogens and cause foodborne illness. It is important for insect farmers to ensure their microstock is not contaminated by soil, moisture, or livestock. Edible insect food safety focuses on the gut microbiome of the insect, as well as potential allergic reactions. People with shellfish or crustacean allergies are advised against eating insects, as they produce some of the same allergens.

For those readers who do not have allergen concerns and who have not been exposed to edible bugs in all their flavors and variety—trying new food is an adventure! Insect protein is good for the planet and nutritionally sound, provided it comes from a safe source. And, like any other food, insects can be dressed "up" or "down" to suit palates and occasions. I recommend pan-sautéed chapulines (grasshoppers) with guacamole and corn tortillas—one of my favorite Mexican dishes—as a delicious appetizer for adding bugs to your diet!